Steps to Make a Hall Table and Beautify Your Hallway
A hall table is a narrow table to decorate your hallway. It not only decorates your house but also delivers benefits in many ways. This article will guide you to make a wonderful skinny hallway table and put it to use for your hallway’s beautification.
STEP 1: Cut List
The first step is to collect the tools and materials required for the making of a hall table. So, collect these things before making a narrow table.
- Four pieces of poplar at 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 11-1/2 – for the end rails
- Two pieces of poplar at 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 35-1/2″ – for the side rails
- One piece of poplar at 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 11-1/2″ – for the middle rail
- One piece of oak at 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 35-1/2″ – for the stretcher
- Three pieces of oak at 3/4″ x 5-1/2″ x 41-1/2″ – for the top slats
- Two pieces of white oak at – 3/4″ x 1-1/2″ x 19″ – for the stiles
- Four pieces of poplar at 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 30″ – for the legs
STEP 2: Side Pieces
- Drill the pocket holes of the end rails but do not drill the pocket holes which are placed 3 inches from the end.
- Apply any color of your choice to paint the end rails and allow it to dry.
- On each end of the stiles (an upright member in the frame), drill two pocket holes. Stain the stiles with anything you like and allow the stain to dry.
- Place the stiles into the end rails. You can use a sturdy face clamp to secure it and then attach stiles with the rails using 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws and obviously, glue.
- Do not forget to place the end rails 3 inches from the end with the pocket holes so that you can point up the holes.
- Now is the time to put a bit of glue in the pocket holes on the stiles. Then, implant the oak pocket-hole plugs into the pocket holes. Use mineral spirits to wipe off the glue that comes out after plugging the oak. Then, sand the plugs to make it evenly smooth with the surface.
- Reapply the stain you used before and allow it to dry.
- Apply any of your chosen paints to the legs and allow the paint to dry.
- Put the legs flush at the end stile’s end (ones with pocket holes drilled exactly 3 inches from the end). Now, you will need a 3/4-inch spacer to block the joints of the end rail and the stiles by attaching them to the legs applying glue and inserting 1-1/4-inch pocket-hole screws.
STEP 3: The Base & the Sides
- Drill the pocket holes of the end rails. Apply the color you used before to paint the side rails and allow it to dry.
- Drill a couple pocket holes on each of the stretcher’s ends, stain them, and allow the stain to dry.
- Place the side rails flush with the top end of the joints and with the pocket holes drilling at the right angles to the long side facing toward the top of the joints.
- Place a right-angle clamp with the pocket-hole and attach it inserting one 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws and applying glue.
- Create the middle rail using the layout for the end rails. Apply paint and allow it to dry.
- Place the middle rail at the center of the side rails and attach it using 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws and glue.
- Place the stretcher at the middle and place the flush with the bottom edge of the end rails. Then attach them using 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws and glue.
STEP 4: The Top
- Cut the top board at least 1/2-inch longer than the length provided in the cut list.
- Try to position the board in such a way that their grains match each other. Place an up curve grain with a down curve grain. Don’t place two up curve grains or two down curve grains adjacent to each other.
- Use painter’s tape to one side of each of the 2×2 oak squares. For clamping the top slats, you will need these oak squares.
- Place 3/4 bar clamps on a level surface and place the top boards on the clamps in a fixed pattern you determined. Don’t forget to keep a gap of 1 inch between the boards.
- Place the cauls. Then, tape the side against the top boards and tailed against the bar clamps.
- Tighten the clamps on the top boards and cauls to make any adjustments if needed. Then, wait until the glue is set.
- Cut out the clamps, sand off the glue that is adhered with the joints. Using a well-built circular saw or table saw, carefully cut the last joint to length.
- Stain all the ends, sides, and edges of the top.
STEP 5: Putting Together
- Place the top upside down on your work surface.
- Place all the pieces together using 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws and no glue.
STEP 6: Finishing Touches
- Apply a bit of glue in the pocket holes on the bottom end rails and plug in the paintable pocket-hole plugs. Remove the excess glue, sand the uneven edges, plugs or anything, and apply the paint as you wish. Allow the paint to dry.
- Use polyurethane to the stained parts of the hall table to diminish them.
- You can use some furniture pads at the bottom of each leg of the hall table.
- Now, you have a beautiful hall table to decorate your hallway!
Although hall tables are smaller than conventional tables, making the former ones is not an easy task. But, following instructions could make the job a breeze while allowing you to boast an excellent skinny hallway table.